Lucca: The Walled Gem of Tusany
While everyone else is elbowing for space in a Florence wine bar, we had this entire vineyard view to ourselves. Not pictured: the bottle of local red we were about to demolish.
Looking for the ultimate Tuscany hidden gem without the soul-crushing crowds of Florence? Welcome to Lucca, Italy, the medieval "Walled City" that most tourists accidentally skip on their way to the Leaning Tower. Whether you’re hunting for authentic Italian food, planning a scenic bike ride from Lucca to Pisa, or dreaming of staying in a historic Tuscan castle, this underrated destination offers a Renaissance fairytale minus the tourist traps. In this guide, Katelyn and I break down why cycling the Lucca city walls is the best way to see the city, where to find the most legendary local pizza, and the dark supernatural legends that haunt these ancient streets. Forget the basic travel checklists, it’s time to discover why Lucca is the best-kept secret in Italy.
Lucca: The Walled Wonder You’re Probably Skipping (But Shouldn’t)
Most travelers treat Tuscany like a frantic grocery list: See the David? Check. Lean against the tower in Pisa for a basic Instagram photo? Check. Drink enough Chianti to forget how much you spent on that leather jacket? Double check. But if you head just west of the usual tourist-clogged arteries, you’ll find Lucca: the city wrapped in Renaissance walls that feels less like a museum and more like a lived-in fairytale. It’s sophisticated, slightly relaxed, and has just enough medieval grit to keep things interesting.
Living Like Feudal Lords: Our Castle Base
The view from our balconette. If you ignore the faint sound of me stubbing my toe on a centuries-old stone doorframe, it’s basically a Renaissance painting come to life
While staying inside the city walls is the standard move, Katelyn and I decided to lean into the "Tuscan Nobleman" aesthetic by booking an old castle just outside the fortifications. The Villa Corte Degli Dei was everything we expected from a boutique hotel in Lucca, and so much more. Due to a slight booking error, we found ourselves upgraded to the castle suite. We certainly didn’t complain.
There is something inherently humbling (and slightly eerie) about waking up in a stone fortress. Looking out over the rolling hills, bathed in sunlight by day, shrouded in mist by night, you half-expect to see a messenger on horseback rather than a Fiat Panda. It provided the perfect balance: the quiet, breezy isolation of the countryside at night, and a strategic base for our daily "sieges" on the city’s food scene.
The Mura di Lucca: A 4km Victory Lap
The defining feature of Lucca is its Mura: massive, intact Renaissance walls that encircle the city. Back in the day, these were meant to keep out the Medici family; today, they’ve been converted into a massive, elevated public park.
We spent our mornings walking and biking the entire 4-kilometer loop. From the top, you’re looking down into secret, lush gardens on one side and the sea of red-tiled roofs on the other. It’s the ultimate people-watching spot. If you don't rent a cruiser bike and artfully weave through the locals walking their dogs, did you even go to Lucca?
The Vanishing Carriage:
Local legend says the beautiful but vain noblewoman Lucida Mansi sold her soul to the Devil for 30 years of youth. When her time was up, the Devil came to collect, dragging her through the streets in a flaming carriage. Residents still claim to see the ghostly coach plunging into the pond at the Botanical Gardens on the edge of the walls.
The ultimate Lucca morning: trading the cobblestones for a 4km elevated loop above the city. Just watch out for the falling leaves… they’re surprisingly stealthy!
The Great Migration: Biking to Pisa
The Devil’s Bridge (Ponte della Maddalena):
Just a short trip outside the city, this bridge looks like something straight out of a dark fantasy novel. Legend says the builder, desperate to finish the impossible structure, struck a deal with Satan: the first soul to cross would belong to the Devil. The clever locals sent a dog across first. The Devil was understandably furious, and some say he still haunts the arches looking for a better deal.
If you’re feeling ambitious (or just need to burn off a week's worth of carbohydrates), Lucca is the perfect jumping-off point for a cycling adventure. We decided to ride all the way to Pisa.
The best part? It’s almost entirely on dedicated bike trails. No dodging Italian traffic or fearing for your life on narrow highways. Instead, the path follows ancient aqueducts and the Serchio river, cutting through sunflower fields and quiet backroads. Arriving at the Piazza dei Miracoli by bike feels like a hard-earned victory. A big plus is skipping the anguishing experience of the sardine-can tourist buses.
A Tale of Two Dinners: Fine Dining vs. The "Local Secret"
You can’t visit this part of Italy without your trip revolving entirely around your next meal. We experienced the two beautiful extremes of Lucca’s culinary soul:
The Piazza Splurge: For a "treat yourself" night, we headed into the central Piazza dell'Anfiteatro inside the walls. There is a specific kind of magic to fine dining in a medieval square. Sipping local Colline Lucchesi wine while the sun sets over the San Michele in Foro. It’s pricey, yes, but the atmosphere is worth every Euro.
The "Holy Grail" Pizza: However, some of our best memories were significantly less bougie than the Michelin-clad, candle lit patios of the piazza. Near our castle stay, we found a tiny, unassuming pizza joint: Pizzeria Time Out, one of the best cheap eats in Lucca outside the city walls. No white tablecloths, no fancy signage, just incredible crust, fresh mozzarella, and those perfect charred edges you can only get from a wood-fired oven that’s probably older than the buildings back home. The kind Albanian woman running the place was an absolute pleasure. She made accommodations for us we would never have expected, and made pizzas without peer!
The Takeaway: Why Lucca Wins
Looking up at the Torre delle Ore. Legend says Lucida Mansi climbed all 207 steps of this tower to try and stop the bell from chiming her death knell… spoiler alert: it didn't work.
Probably my personal highlight in the time we spent in Italy. Would I ever return to Lucca? Absolutely.
Lucca doesn't demand your attention with massive, must-see monuments; it wins you over with its peace and pace. It’s a place that invites you to actually stay a while, whether you’re biking the ramparts or hiding away in your castle. It’s Tuscany, but without the elbows-out intensity of Florence. And honestly? The pizza is better anyway.
Lucca is Tuscany’s best-kept secret, but I’m willing to share. What’s the one 'lesser-known' destination you’re gatekeeping? I promise I won't tell the crowds.